Weingut Friedrich Becker Family Pinot Gris 2020
Weingut Friedrich Becker Family Pinot Gris at Bar Dough in Denver
Pfalz, Germany
If you’re new to the orange wine category, this is the bottle to get your first impression from. If you’ve tasted orange wine before and found it bitter, overbearing, and out of balance – this is the wine to take a second chance on.
Not sure what orange wine is? Click here to learn about it.
Some people might argue Becker Pinot Gris isn’t a full-blown orange wine. In my opinion, if that’s the case, the juice is better for it. This wine is made from the Pinot Gris grape, also known as Pinot Grigio, from the Pfalz region of Germany. For the record, Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the same grape variety. The difference has to do with the style of wines produced from it in different regions.
The grape originated In France where it is called Pinot Gris (grey pinot). The region most famous for these wines is Alsace where the grape produces rich, full-flavored wines that tend to be a bit higher in alcohol and often have a pleasant, slightly oily texture on the palate.
In Italy, the wines made from Pinot Grigio are generally fresh and fruity and are intended to be enjoyed while they’re young.
Pinot Gris is believed to be a mutation of Pinot Noir and although it is generally considered to be a white wine grape, the skin is a salmon color instead of the bright green of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, or Riesling.
Aesop’s fable, “The Fox and the Grapes” Led to Perseverance in the Becker Family’s Wine History
“To tell the story of Weingut Friedrich Becker in Pfalz, one must become familiar with Aesop’s fable, “The Fox and the Grapes,” which involves a fox trying to eat grapes from a vine far from within his grasp. However, rather than admitting defeat, the fox states that the grapes are sour, so he never really wanted them. This very fox adorns Becker labels and has done so since the estate released its first commercially made wines back in 1973.”
Initially, the Becker family focused on mixed agriculture and grew grapes for resale. When Friedrich Fritz Becker Senior took control of the estate from his father he decided to stop selling their grapes and instead began producing his own estate wines. To the surprise of his neighbors, he experimented with the Pinot Noir grape, which in Germany is called Spätburgunder. At the start, he was met with adversity from his peers who didn’t believe the grape would perform well in their cold climate. Ever resilient, he pressed on and over the years paved the way for what is now the third most planted grape in Germany with vineyards in all 13 of the country’s recognized wine regions.
The Becker Weingut, or wine-producing estate, is set along the border of France and Germany in the far south region of Pfalz in the town of Schweigen. Today, about 70% of the Becker family’s land sits on the French side in Alsace.
Alsace is a unique region as it sits on the east side of the Vosges mountain range which separates it from the rest of France.
Over the years, the region has traded hands between France and Germany resulting in a unique blend of the two country’s influences which today permeate every aspect of life from architecture to winemaking to the unique dialect spoken by the locals.
A popular tourist destination known for its sunny weather and sweeping landscapes, the area has come a long way thanks to innovators like Becker. Wines that were once thought to be simple and inexpensive have evolved into top-quality examples of some of the world’s most noble grape varieties.
Becker Pinot Gris with Bar Dough’s wood-fired ‘Cavolo’ pizza
The area offers a climate ideal for growing Pinot Noir. Since Pinot Gris is a mutation of this grape, it too thrives in the relatively dry, sunny weather. The grapes for this particular wine are grown in a mixture of clay and limestone soils where they achieve optimal ripeness and flavor.
In the winery, the juice is macerated with the skins for just 12 to 24 hours before being gently pressed so as not to extract any bitter phenolics. It’s fermented dry in a combination of stainless steel tanks and large 2,400-liter oak barrels where it is left to rest in contact with the lees (dead yeast cells) for five months following the ferment which gives the wine a soft, slippery mouthfeel and enhanced complexity.
The time spent in contact with the grape skins gives the wine a soft, copper hue with flecks of gold throughout. It’s satiny on the tongue with lively aromas of Honeycrisp apple, fresh strawberry, grapefruit, and lemon zest with the slightest hint of spice.
This is an incredibly fun wine that I’ll call a crowd-pleaser even though the expression is a bit overused in my opinion. It’s a wine that changes minds and perceptions about everything from Germany to Pinot Gris to orange wine to rosé.
In addition to its gorgeous hue, the time spent with the skins also imparts a subtle but marvelous tannin structure to the wine reminiscent of freshly brewed sun tea. It’s wonderfully fresh and easy to drink at just 12.9% alcohol.
I can’t say enough how much I love this wine – you’ve just got to try it.
Wine Features
100% Pinot Gris
12-18 hours of skin contact
12.9% alcohol
$20 - $25
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Weingut Friedrich Becker Family Pinot Gris at Bar Dough in Denver
Bar Dough is a staple in the Denver restaurant scene. The intimate space was recently updated by the very creative Abigail Plantier, owner of Maximalist Experience Design who incorporated jewel tones, mixed textures, plant life, and expertly placed design details throughout.
I paired this bottle with a meal commencing with the tuna crudo antipasti with gooseberry, grapefruit, fried caper, and Calabrian chili vinaigrette. To follow, we had Bar Dough’s wood-fired ‘Cavolo’ pizza with garlic oil, Castelvetrano olive, Fresno chili, ricotta di bufala, kale, and lemon. This vegetarian-friendly option is a flavor frenzy atop pillowy pizza dough. It’s frankly irresistible.
The meal was anchored by this exceptional wine which transitions seamlessly from star of the show to backup dancer with every course.
Check out my editorial for DiningOut Magazine featuring this and several other outstanding sustainable wines in Denver restaurants in honor of Earth Month in April 2023.
Enjoying this wine at home?
This is what I refer to as a “Thanksgiving Wine.” I say so because it’s a bottle that pairs with just about any savory dish. The Thanksgiving holiday is a collision of flavors and a wine like this is up to the task of balancing it all.
For something more specific, try it with grilled or roasted salmon with fresh lemon and herbs or a piping hot pot of mussels with a crusty baguette or fries drizzled in truffle oil.
Want something from the land? A simple cornish game hen preparation with garlic and rosemary would be absolutely delicious.
Explore more wine recommendations
When I come across a sparkling wine that has it all, I have to share it. Handley Estate Vineyard Brut Rosé 2016 is a fine blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made in the champagne method. The grapes are certified organic and the winery was founded by a trailblazer of a lady, Milla Handley back in the 1980s. A stunning sparkling rosé, this bottle comes to Denver through the distribution portfolio of Master Sommelier, Doug Krenik.