Lunaria ‘Coste di Moro’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017

Lunaria ‘Coste di Moro’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo at Hungry Goat in Morrison, CO

Abruzzo, Italy

Lunaria wines are crafted by Italian cooperative Cantina Orsogna set in the rolling hills of Abruzzo. True stewards of the land, the group is committed to crafting organic, biodynamic, and vegan-certified wines that meet the highest standards of sustainability.

The cooperative includes over 600 farmers who share the values and embrace the crucial role their practices play in the global effort to preserve the land. Since its formation in 1964, the group has worked together to explore new methods for producing exceptional wines that meet or exceed the standards set forth by the certifying bodies in each category.

Organic farming typically precedes the conversion to biodynamics, as was the case for Cantina Osogna. The group adopted organic farming in 1995 and in 2003 began the arduous process of converting to biodynamics. In addition to their remarkable work in viticulture, they also dedicate their efforts to conserving the Majella National Park in Abruzzo. This remarkable area of Italy is a world heritage site the group has recognized as a crucial place for biodiversity that’s worth preserving.

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Abruzzo is certainly a region worth saving. The Mediterranean paradise is a collision of mountain and sea views. The picturesque Apennines mountains lie to the west while the Adriatic Sea laps along the eastern coastline.

The red wine grape Montepulciano reigns here while bright, citrusy Trebbiano is the queen of the whites. The wines made from Montepulciano, which is not to be confused with the Tuscan village of the same name, are produced in a range of styles from bold and rustic to fruit-forward and playful.

The region’s proximity to the seaside brings cooling breezes through the hillside vineyards, bringing temperatures down which helps preserve the acidity in the grapes while warm, sunny conditions during the day allow for optimal ripening. As the popularity of the wines here increases, farmers have reduced yields electing to focus more on quality and sustainability and less on quantity. Even so, these wines can be found at relatively affordable prices in most quality wine shops in the US.

Lunaria winery is certified biodynamic by Demeter. As a certifying body, Demeter meticulously examines all aspects of vineyard management and production. This commitment goes beyond organics, embracing the cycles of the moon and planets, thus the name ‘Lunaria’, in the approach to farming.

The property itself is more than just a vineyard as companion crops are put in place to help promote overall biodiversity and environmental integrity. Those who work these vineyards live in sync with the rhythm of nature, ebbing and flowing with the earth’s cycles and constantly observing the evolution of the land.

Beyond the vineyard, biodynamic principles are designed to help sustain the local wildlife that roams the mountainous landscape. In addition to its commitment to the environment, Lunaria supports the local community with the help of BABALU Friendship Farm, a local organization that offers employment for people with special needs. This group is responsible for the application of the special rope that wraps the neck of each bottle of wine made at Lunaria.

In the glass, the Lunaria ‘Coste di Moro’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a rich ruby color so deeply pigmented that it stains the glass as you swirl it. Aromas of black plum and strawberry preserves pop out of the glass. On the palate, the wine is powerful in its tannin structure with the mouthwatering acidity we expect from a great Italian red. The flavors are of stewed black and red fruits with subtle wood notes of toasted nuts, cocoa, and baking spices.


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Lunaria ‘Coste di Moro’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo at Hungry Goat Scratch Kitchen & Wine Bar in Morrison

It’s only fitting that a wine crafted in the mountains would be served in a mountain setting here in Colorado. If you’re located in the Denver area, hop in the car and take the short drive up to the town of Morrison where Hungry Goat Scratch Kitchen & Wine Bar is pouring this by the glass. This farm-to-table menu is packed with locally-sourced ingredients and offers an array of seasonal dishes as well as cocktails and an impressive, sustainably-focused wine program.


I opted for an order of the steak tartare made of prime filet mignon with shallot, cornichon, diable sauce, quail egg, microgreen, lemon, parsley, and crostini served with a bed of fresh arugula. I waffled between that and the bolognese pappardelle with house-made pasta, plum tomato sauce, beef, pork, garlic bread, aromatics, and parmigiana. I’m looking forward to returning ahead of my next Red Rocks show so I can try the pasta and savor another glass of this amazing wine.

 

Check out my editorial for DiningOut Magazine featuring this and several other outstanding sustainable wines in Denver restaurants in honor of Earth Month in April 2023.


Enjoying this wine at home?

You can’t go wrong with a pizza topped with pepperoni, sausage, and Italian cheeses.

Something as simple as mama’s meatballs over a bed of al dente pasta would be delicious also.


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Montana Rae, Sommelier & Founder

Montana is a Certified Sommelier (CMS/WSET III), wine educator, and avid home chef. Her passion is sharing her knowledge of fine wine, spirits, saké, cocktails, and cuisine with The Wine Ship community through special events and educational media.

https://www.thewineship.com/montana
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